When you hear the word “algae,” what comes to mind? Maybe it’s the green substance floating in ponds, or maybe you think of edible seaweeds like kelp and wakame?
Today, algae are emerging as promising materials that will support our lives in the future. At Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, the Japan Pavilion is dedicating a full third of its space to algae-themed exhibits. Among them is a showcase by MATSURI, a project led by CHITOSE, dedicated to driving the global bioeconomy forward.
MATSURI is a cross-industry collaborative initiative focused on building a society rooted in biotechnology. A key part of this vision is the creation of a sustainable algae-based industry, reflected in “ALGAL by MATSURI” ― a curated collection of algae-derived products spanning fashion, cosmetics, food, paint, and more ― “ALGAL products” showcased under one roof.
This article focuses on two skincare vision products (prototypes) developed by Shiseido using algae-derived ingredients: Bi no Tama Shizuku and Bi no Tama Magatama. Algae, which originated in Earth’s ancient oceans, have played a vital role in raising atmospheric oxygen levels through photosynthesis and greatly influencing the diversification of life. These prototypes shine a new light on algae and offer a fresh perspective on the meaning of beauty. Through the words of the researchers involved in their development, we explore the intentions behind these skincare prototypes (hereinafter, vision products) and the philosophy that shaped them.
Featured in This Interview
Nozomi Oguchi, Ph.D.
Group Manager, Sustainable Formulation & Raw Material Group, Sustainability Development Acceleration Department, Development Acceleration Center, Brand Value R&D Institute, SHISEIDO CO., LTD
Yuji Ito
Group Manager, Cross Brand Raw Material Development Group, Raw Material Development Division, Development Acceleration Center, Brand Value R&D Institute, SHISEIDO CO., LTD
Two Shapes That Bridge the Ancient and the Modern
Shiseido’s products currently on display at Expo are the “Bi no Tama Shizuku” and “Bi no Tama Magatama.” With jewel-like appearances, both products embody the long story of algae that dates back to ancient times.
Yuji Ito, who led the development of the ingredients, shares his thoughts behind these two shapes.
Ito: “Bi no Tama Shizuku’’ symbolizes the eternal history of algae born from the ocean. Around three billion years ago, cyanobacteria—the ancestors of algae—began harnessing sunlight in the ocean and transforming carbon dioxide into oxygen. This monumental process gave the Earth its breath, laying the foundation for an environment where all forms of life could flourish. It was the beginning of everything.
Over time, algae gradually made their way from water to land, eventually evolving into plants capable of taking root in dry soil. ‘’Bi no Tama Magatama’’ reflects this journey of life onto land. Its shape draws inspiration from magatama—ancient ornamental beads worn by people in antiquity—symbolizing a beauty that has been cherished and passed down through generations.”
‘’Bi no Tama Shizuku’’ evokes the genesis of life from water.
‘’Bi no Tama Magatama’’ embodies a form of prayer, treasured across the ages.
These two shapes embody the immense vitality of algae and the preciousness of these tiny living things that gave breath to our existence billions of years ago. Nurtured through the vast history of the Earth, they are now finding their way into the palms of our hands as modern skincare. Woven into their creation is a deep sense of reverence and love for nature.
Science/Creativity
Oguchi: “Shiseido, born from the fusion of Western science and Eastern wisdom, is guided by the concept of DYNAMIC HARMONY, our research and development philosophy. By skillfully blending these two seemingly incompatible values, we aim to create a completely new form of beauty. One of the approaches to this is “Science/Creativity.””
Ito: “This concept is embedded in the vision products as well. After numerous discussions with the project team, we chose the three colors of green, blue, and red for ‘’Bi no Tama Magatama,’’ each representing the natural pigments found in algae (green = chlorophyll, blue = phycocyanin, red = astaxanthin). The shape of the vision products was inspired by the diverse and delicate shapes found in algae— beauty created by nature, far beyond human imagination.”
Ito shared that at the outset of development, when the idea of creating cosmetics using algae-derived ingredients was first brought to the creative team, the initial reaction was one of puzzled silence. However, through repeated dialogue, refining of language, and the gradual distillation of the concept, what remained was a sense of affection and reverence for algae.
A Pioneering Challenge: Skincare Ingredients Born from Algae
Ito explains the ingredients used in the vision products: “The key ingredient is a fatty acid derivative extracted from algae cultivated by CHITOSE. It’s an essential component for enhancing hydration and texture. What makes it truly remarkable, however, is that it’s derived from algae, making it an unprecedented achievement.
Until now, algae-derived ingredients in cosmetics have mainly been used for their functional properties or as algae extracts. In contrast, ‘”Bi no Tama’ “ takes an entirely new approach: replacing part of the base formulation itself with algae-derived materials. Because algae grow much faster and have significantly higher biomass productivity compared to terrestrial plants, this innovation marks a first step in the shift toward sustainable ingredients.
We brought together various departments to develop a purification method that met the complex challenges of working with algae-derived ingredients. Our goal was to create a prototype we could proudly say meets our high standards for safety and quality. None of it was easy. It took countless cycles of trial and error, testing and refining, to bring this vision to life.”
When the first drop of the vision product made with the purified, algae-derived base ingredient was created, it was a moment of pride for the entire development team—to know that this ingredient represented a significant step toward a circular society.
At the heart of it all was an honest wish: to help heal the planet. Oguchi reflects, “Chasing superficial, short-term results makes it difficult to sustain the development of truly sustainable solutions. There are yet many hurdles to overcome, and that’s why it is so important to hold on to our beliefs.”
These words echoed a spirit of challenge, unyielding no matter how long the road ahead.
A Future Where Beautiful, Effortless Choices are the Norm
When asked who she hopes will use this vision product, Oguchi paused for a moment before answering, “I’d be happy if all kinds of people just naturally found themselves using this product in their everyday lives.”
She continued, “I hope that sustainability will be seen as normal and not as something special several decades, or even centuries from now. That society will find itself naturally gravitating towards sustainable choices. We, at Shiseido, are creating that first breakthrough—and we’re working on it with great pride.
We’ve been thinking about how the algae-derived ingredients can bring satisfaction to those who use them. Beyond the satisfaction with the ingredients themselves, I believe that the mindset of doing ”what’s best for the Earth“ and ”what’s best for future generations“ is also a beautiful thing that will truly resonate with our customers. What this vision product embodies is exactly that mindset of sustainability.”
Building on Oguchi’s words, Ito adds: “When people do something good, their faces begin to glow. We believe that inner beauty naturally radiates into outer beauty. Studies have shown that when people are moved by something beautiful, it activates the brain, helping to reduce stress and worries, and even nurturing a sense of altruism.
Seen this way, purchasing sustainably helps make the Earth more beautiful, and in turn, seeing a beautiful Earth nourishes both mind and body, creating a cycle of beauty. That is the kind of future we believe in.”
The two “Bi no Tama” vision products that are currently on exhibit at the Japan Pavilion are themed around circulation. This setting conveys the message: “By choosing to protect the beauty of the Earth, we nurture the beauty within ourselves.” It’s a wish from Shiseido—for kindness towards not only the skin, but to the heart, and to the planet. That wish has taken shape as the “Bi no Tama,” now ready to be shared with the world from the Expo stage.
Written by Natsuho Konno / Translated by Tanya Topolian